The Popped Collar

From its origins as a practical necessity to its place in various cultural movements, the popped collar has proven its staying power. Whether worn with effortless cool or as an ironic throwback, it remains one of fashion’s simplest yet most effective tools for self-expression. Love it or hate it, the popped collar isn’t going anywhere—it just keeps evolving.


Function Over Fashion

Long before it became a style statement, the popped collar had a purely functional purpose. In the 18th and 19th centuries, high collars on coats and shirts were designed to protect wearers from harsh weather and even sunburn. Stiff, starched collars—often detachable—were a staple of men’s fashion, signaling formality and status. Sailors, too, would turn up their collars to shield themselves from wind and sun while out at sea.

1950s–1960s: The Rebel Collar

The idea of the popped collar as a fashion statement gained traction in the mid-20th century. James Dean and Marlon Brando, icons of rebellion, were often seen with their collars flipped up on leather jackets, adding to their rugged, anti-establishment image. This look was particularly associated with rock-and-roll culture, where a popped collar symbolized defiance and effortless masculinity.

1970s–1980s: The Preppy Revolution

The popped collar underwent a transformation in the 1970s and 1980s, becoming synonymous with the "preppy" look. Popularized by brands like Ralph Lauren, Lacoste, and Brooks Brothers, polo shirts with flipped collars became a staple for Ivy League students, yacht club members, and suburban socialites. This was less about rebellion and more about status—an easy, casual way to exude wealth and privilege. The trend was cemented by the publication of The Official Preppy Handbook (1980), which outlined the popped collar as a must for those aiming to embody upper-class leisure.

1990s–2000s: Ironic Revival and Over-the-Top Excess

After a brief decline in the grunge-dominated ‘90s, the popped collar roared back in the early 2000s. This time, it was often exaggerated—sometimes with multiple layered polo shirts, each collar popped. This trend was particularly prevalent in fraternity and club culture, blending preppy aesthetics with a hyper-masculine, party-ready attitude. Celebrities and reality TV stars of the era embraced the look, though it gradually became associated with a kind of try-hard bravado that led to its eventual fall from favor.

Today: A More Subtle Statement

Today, the popped collar has returned in a more subdued form. Designers have played with structured collars that stand on their own, and some menswear and streetwear brands incorporate it into minimalist, refined looks. Rather than a bold declaration of identity, today's popped collar is more about personal style—whether as a nod to vintage fashion, an intentional styling trick for layering, or simply for practical sun protection. Notable examples include:

  • Prada's SS18 Collection: Miuccia Prada's menswear collection showcased the comeback of popped collars, blending them with contemporary designs to create a fresh aesthetic. 

  • TikTok: The popped collar trend has experienced a revival on TikTok, with fashion enthusiasts and millennials bringing back the style, showcasing its versatility and modern appeal. 

  • Street Style Trends: High collars, reminiscent of the popped collar look, were spotted in street style during the Fall 2025 season, offering a subtle incognito appearance.

These instances highlight the popped collar's evolution from a bold statement to a refined element in contemporary fashion, embraced by designers and fashion-forward individuals alike.